
Civita di Bagnoregio is an ancient, medieval town with a terrible fate – it’s slowly dropping off the edge of a cliff as the rock erodes. Once a thriving village, there is now no way for the Italian authorities to protect it from its sad decline. Today, less than 100 people live in the town but you can visit for just 5 euros, and it makes for an excellent alternative thing to do in Italy.
Civita di Bagnoregio is in Viterbo, Lazio, not far from Lake Bolsena, and is nicknamed “Paese che muore”, the dying city. It was built around 2,500 years ago by the Etruscan people on top of a plateau of soft clay, with just one way in and out through a beautiful, huge stone arch. As a result of natural disasters and decay over the years, the sides of the mesa eroded, taking parts of the town’s historical architecture with it.
Over the years, the townspeople gradually moved down to live in the settlement of Bagnoregio on the plain, leaving the town of Civita on the hill virtually a ghost town. These days, the permanent population of Civita is around 7 people in winter, which swells to around 100 in summer. The donkey path that once led up to the village has also been worn away, and the only way to get there now is via a modern footbridge that has been installed there.
Visitors to Civita di Bagnoregio can find a couple of small restaurants and a café there, but the most astounding thing is the historic buildings and churches that remain standing in their original state, preserved thanks to their relative isolation from the world’s globalisation and the bombs that fell during World War II. Thanks to its spectacular beauty, Civita di Bagnoregio is a popular place for people to celebrate their wedding against a backdrop of typical Italian houses and gardens.

The nearest parking spaces and hotels to Civita are in the larger town of Bagnoregio, which is the best place to stay when you’re in the area. The weather there is mild, with around 60 days of rainfall a year and average temperatures in summer rarely reaching above 30⁰C. You’d be well advised to take a jacket with you as it may be windy up on the plateau. Maps of the town are available from the tourist information office, which is open from 8 am to 8 pm and where you can also buy the tickets to get in. The entrance fee to visit Civita di Bagnoregio is 5 euros and the money goes towards helping to preserve this incredible town. Be sure to visit it today before the whole place is gone!
Civita di Bagnoregio: how to get there
Civita di Bagnoregio is about 75 miles north of Rome and takes about 1 hour 45 minutes to drive there on the E35/E45 roads. If you’re going from Florence, it's about 75 miles south and you should also take the E35 but southbound, which will take you around 2 and a half hours.
- Where: 01022 Viterbo, Italy
- Price: 5 euros (free entrance for children under 6 and disabled people)
- Website: www.promotuscia.it/civita-di-bagnoregio